From stewing drinking to drying collecting
For the using of tie guan yin
tea, from the earliest chewing of fresh leaves developed into stewing and
drinking. Stewing, is similar with stewing soup in today. Such as in Yunnan, the
Jinuo minority still keep the convention of eating the dish mixed tie guan yin
leaves: crush the fresh leaves and put them into a bowl, add some yellow fruit
leaves, garlic, pimiento and salt as seasoning, then some spring water and mix
them. For drinking the tie guan yin
tea, the 《Book of Jin Dynasty》recorded: People in Wu Dynasty
picked tie guan yin leaves and stew them, named it tea porridge. Even till the
Tang Dynasty, people still had the habit of eating tea porridge.
In the Three
Kingdoms Period, there came up the simple process of tie guan yin tea in Wei
Dynasty. Leaves that newly picked are made into bulks, drying and baking, which
is the germination of the tie guan yin processing technics.
3. From steaming
shapes to the dragon and phoenix bulks
The tie guan yin bulk with primary
process still has strong grass smell. With times of practice, people invented
the steaming way to make tie guan yin tea, i.e., crush the fresh steamed leaves
and perforate the tea cakes, bunch them with a string bake then bake them to
remove the smell. But it still tastes bitter, the people reduce the bitter
flavor by washing fresh leaves, steaming and pressing.
From Tang Dynasty to
Song, the Gong tie guan yin tea emerged. There was a Gong tie guan yin tea
academy, is actual a factory making tie guan yin tea. The officials did some
researches on tie guan yin tea to promote revolutions of the tea productionNews
from Xinhua net says that 140 tea peasants from Xihu dragon
well tea protection zones came to Chinese Tea Museum to have free
trainings. They were taught tea making by professors and masters, in order to
join the coming competition. Although sponsors have encouraged young villagers
to participate, 70 percent are old men above 40. villagers says that, this craft
is not very costly, but time-consuming. So more and more young people don’t
choose to learn it.
According to the book of Zhao Ruli, the producing technics of the dragon and
phoenix tie guan yin tea bulks had six steps: steaming, pressing, pestling,
shaping, filtering yellow and baking. Dig the newly picked tie guan yin leaves
in water; pick the shapely buds and leaves and steam them; wash them with cold
water; press to remove water and tie guan yin juice; put some water to pestle
them; then mold and bake.
In the making process of dragon and phoenix tie
guan yin tea, washing with cold water may keep the green color of the leaves,
which improve the leaves quality. The method of dipping and pressing remove the
true taste, which makes a big lose of tie guan yin and the whole process costs
time, which spurred appearance of steamed tie guan yin tea.
4. From bulks to
loose tie guan yin tea
In the producing of steaming tie guan yin tea, to
improve the shortcoming that hard to remove bitter taste and hybrid scent,
people gradually took the methods without kneading and pressing but baking
straightly. They turned the steam bulk tie guan yin
tea into steam the loose leaves, which kept the aroma of tie guan
yin. Meanwhile, there came up the appreciating method and quality requirement of
the loose tie guan yin tea. This revolution came up in the Song Dynasty.
From
the Song to Yuan Dynasty, the bulk tie guan yin, the dragon and phoenix bulk and
loose tie guan yin tea exist together. To the Ming Dynasty, the Tai Tsu Chu
Yuan-chang issued an imperial edict that depose dragon bulks and encourage loose
tie guan yin tea, which made the loose tie guan yin tea prevailedTwo Flavors
Beginners think of Dragon Well tea’s chestnutty roasted flavor. A more experienced green tea drinker will understand she has two distinct flavors: artificial and natural.
Roasted and Toasty
The roasted flavor is overwhelming in the first month, then gradually disappears towards the end of the season. It is more apparent in the lower grades (A or B), where the leaves are roasted longer with heavier hand pressure.
The taste is an extrovert toasted aroma that is the strongest in the first infusion, then fades away quickly.
Natural Sweetness
The higher grade (such as King, Jipin, AAA) leaves undergo minimal processing to preserve their goodness.
They are roasted for a shorter time using lighter hand pressure. This natural inner essence is exquisite, floral and dragon well tea lasting, peaking only in the second and third infusion.
How to Store
The higher the tea quality, the more easily it loses its flavor. Put some effort and it should keep fresh for a year.
If the tea is sealed, keep in a freezer. Cover with a box to insulate from temperature change. Warm the room temperature before opening. This prevents condensation.
Once the package has been opened, store away from light, moisture, smell and heat in an airtight container.
How to Brew
Brewing quality Chinese green tea is the opposite of brewing a Japanese green tea.You should infuse a small amount of leaves in high temperature water for as long as it takes.
A good starting point is to use 2 grams of tea leaves with 8 ounces (225 millimeters) of water.
(For Dragon Well tea, 1 gram correspond to roughly 60 tea buds.)
Pour hot water of 195 Fahrenheit (90 degree Celsius). Steep until most of the tea buds has sink to the bottom of the glass and the tea liquor turns yellow. This will take 5 to 10 minutes for the first infusion.
Decant and leave one-third to use as the seed for the next infusion.
Infuse for another 2 to 4 times with progressively shorter steeping time.
(For Dragon Well tea, I also like to steep with the tiniest concentration at 1 gram per 8 ounce water.)
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